Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
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- carvan4040
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Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
Hi guy's
Have pulled my forks apart as i need to replace fork seals. My questions are, The service manuals i have show a slightly different type fork. It appears the early models had forks that are different to 76 models. The top of my fork tube has a cap with a circlip on it. The earlier ones appeared to have a bolt type cap. Having now seperated the two parts i'm now wondering how to get the top bit apart ie after having removed the circlip how does that cap come out? Do i even need to pull the top bit apart if i'm just changing the seal? Were the fork seals for the earlier and later models the same, ie same part numbers?
Any help appreciated thanks.
Richard
Have pulled my forks apart as i need to replace fork seals. My questions are, The service manuals i have show a slightly different type fork. It appears the early models had forks that are different to 76 models. The top of my fork tube has a cap with a circlip on it. The earlier ones appeared to have a bolt type cap. Having now seperated the two parts i'm now wondering how to get the top bit apart ie after having removed the circlip how does that cap come out? Do i even need to pull the top bit apart if i'm just changing the seal? Were the fork seals for the earlier and later models the same, ie same part numbers?
Any help appreciated thanks.
Richard
- carvan4040
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
Another question how do i get the old seal out. I have watched some you tube videos and they say to simply pull on the fork tube and the bottom bush will force it out. Mine didn't have anything like that. The fork tube simply pulled straight out of the fork leg. I'm trying to add pics but it won't let me
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
Richard,
I did this job last year so I am familiar with what you describe.
While you could get to and change the fork seals without removing that 'bung', you'll have to get it out in order to refill the fork with fork oil anyway. Make sure the bike is on its mainstand, or at least that the fork leg is not compressed. Do not have the fork leg end pointing at your face when you try to get that bung out, its spring loaded. I have a war story from the 70s about how I learned this
Once the circlip is out, as it is, there is just enough pressure behind it from the unloaded fork spring to make that bung pop out nicely it you tap away at it with a socket extension bar and a light hammer. Tap tap tap, the bugger will slip its O-ring past the groove and pop out, it may take a lot of tapping, especially if its not been out in decades. Crap design IMO.
To swap the seals, you'll need to undo the allen bolt underneath the fork lower leg. If you have not drained the fork oil through the small drain screw at the lower rear of the lower leg, now is a good time to do that. Once that lower allen is out, the chrome inner and alloy outer legs will slide apart. Getting the old seal out can be tricky; what I've done is to screw in a couple of self-tapping screws, clamp a mole wrench to them in turn and tap on the wrench a screw at a time until it lifts out. It can be very resistant to moving but it does come out.
If there is a two part seal in there, keep the thin spacer as new seals, especially if not from Suzuki, may not come with them. I recommend Suzuki seals anyway. These are a pain to swap and no point in compromising on cost/quality and having leaks later.
Good luck!
Mike
I did this job last year so I am familiar with what you describe.
While you could get to and change the fork seals without removing that 'bung', you'll have to get it out in order to refill the fork with fork oil anyway. Make sure the bike is on its mainstand, or at least that the fork leg is not compressed. Do not have the fork leg end pointing at your face when you try to get that bung out, its spring loaded. I have a war story from the 70s about how I learned this

Once the circlip is out, as it is, there is just enough pressure behind it from the unloaded fork spring to make that bung pop out nicely it you tap away at it with a socket extension bar and a light hammer. Tap tap tap, the bugger will slip its O-ring past the groove and pop out, it may take a lot of tapping, especially if its not been out in decades. Crap design IMO.
To swap the seals, you'll need to undo the allen bolt underneath the fork lower leg. If you have not drained the fork oil through the small drain screw at the lower rear of the lower leg, now is a good time to do that. Once that lower allen is out, the chrome inner and alloy outer legs will slide apart. Getting the old seal out can be tricky; what I've done is to screw in a couple of self-tapping screws, clamp a mole wrench to them in turn and tap on the wrench a screw at a time until it lifts out. It can be very resistant to moving but it does come out.
If there is a two part seal in there, keep the thin spacer as new seals, especially if not from Suzuki, may not come with them. I recommend Suzuki seals anyway. These are a pain to swap and no point in compromising on cost/quality and having leaks later.
Good luck!
Mike
- captainpooby
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
This should get your seal out most ricky tick.
Place the lower tube in a vise, clamp it at the bottom, do what you need to not mar the fork. Remove the dust cover and any circlip or washers. Hook the blade part in the seal lip, then raise the bar up till the heel rests on the other side. It should be pointing almost straight up. Now, give the bar a slap with the heel of your palm. The seal should pop up, maybe even right out. Move the tool around and keep slapping until it pops out.
Be careful not to mar the fork inner or outer surfaces.
Pro tip: there is a copper sealing washer on the bottom fork bolt. If it comes out with the bolt you're ok, if it doesn't, get it out before it drops out and you lose it.

Place the lower tube in a vise, clamp it at the bottom, do what you need to not mar the fork. Remove the dust cover and any circlip or washers. Hook the blade part in the seal lip, then raise the bar up till the heel rests on the other side. It should be pointing almost straight up. Now, give the bar a slap with the heel of your palm. The seal should pop up, maybe even right out. Move the tool around and keep slapping until it pops out.
Be careful not to mar the fork inner or outer surfaces.
Pro tip: there is a copper sealing washer on the bottom fork bolt. If it comes out with the bolt you're ok, if it doesn't, get it out before it drops out and you lose it.

- carvan4040
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
Thanks for the replies. But what do you mean by tapping the cap out . I guess you mean from the inside but how do i do that. I can't stick anything up the fork tube. Also can anyone confirm if the fork seals are the same for all models.
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
seal removal . are you saying to tap it out from the bottom by using something?. You don't say what you are using. could you explain this a bit more please
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
Nooooo - that was not suggested.
It's removing the bung / plug in the top of the fork leg. Tap it from the top - it'll bounce on the spring and eventually pop out. Try it.
Mike
It's removing the bung / plug in the top of the fork leg. Tap it from the top - it'll bounce on the spring and eventually pop out. Try it.
Mike
- captainpooby
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
Don't forget to remove the c clip!
- carvan4040
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
Thanks i'll try that
- carvan4040
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
I managed to get the end cap off it came out pretty easy. Also got the old fork seal out but completley destroyed it. What's the thing sitting under the oil seal is it another seal or more of a spacer. I have caused some damage to it when trying to prise the oil seal out. There's gouge marks on the top but the sides look okay. My question is it still okay to use? Can i just put the new oil seal on top of it or have i damaged it to the extent that the actual oil seal will leak?
Thanks
Richard
Thanks
Richard
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
Richard,
The slimmer one is just a spacer and should be fine provided you don't have such gross distortion that it won't go in properly (hard to imagine that). The new fork seal provides the seal itself. I have heard of people not bothering with the spacer and it being fine anyway.
Cheers,
Mike
The slimmer one is just a spacer and should be fine provided you don't have such gross distortion that it won't go in properly (hard to imagine that). The new fork seal provides the seal itself. I have heard of people not bothering with the spacer and it being fine anyway.
Cheers,
Mike
- captainpooby
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
Don't sweat it. The sealing surface is between the seal and the inner fork tube. As long as that's minty, you should be fine. The oil doesn't try to escape around the outside of the seal.
Make sure you clean out the area where the seal sits before installing the new one so that it sits square in the tube.
Make sure you clean out the area where the seal sits before installing the new one so that it sits square in the tube.
- carvan4040
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals on 1976 GT 550 A
Thanks guy's for the help, I'm confident now in completing the job without further hassles.
Thanks
Richard
Thanks
Richard