help
new 73' gt380 owner here,
I've actually owned her since spring and mechanically its a start on 1st kick type bike Apart from the dreaded nylon gear failure there have been no problems.
Just had the tank and side panel professionally repainted
and got it on the road and the clutch cable broke and there is the problem as I can't seem to get the clutch adjusted correctly as shifting into any of the gears brings a clunking noise.I've went over the 3 adjustment points a few times with no change.One thing i've noticed is the clutch engager screw is slightly pulled out so you can see the edges of it .Is this normal?Also this is a 1972 engine i'll try to post a picture .
The bracket that holds the cable has fallen off it's notch under the washer. You have to remove the nut and washer. Once both are removed there is a retaining groove on the bracket. Once the bracket's notch is properly in place you have to hold the bracket from slipping off again as you lightly tighten the washer and nut by hand. The nut can only be tightened far enough to keep the bracket from slipping off again. Once you're at that point. Hold the nut still with a box wrench. Turn the clutch push rod in until light resistance is felt. After, turn the push rod out to approximately 1/4 - 1/2 turn while keeping the nut still. At that point. Tighten the nut, while preventing the push rod from turning with a flat blade momentarily. Both ends of the cable has to be adjusted properly first. Before making this adjustment or the clutch will not engage properly. Very easy to do. Sometimes you have to mess with both cable ends a couple of times before you get it right. I would also work on the retainer holding the clutch end of the cable. It looks butchered a little. You don't want that end of the cable to slip off. It looks like it needs pinched tighter back together. You can very easily remove the complete assembly and doctor that end up with easier access.
+1 to the above. Also, I've found it is worth removing that cover and checking the whole lifter assembly is properly secured -- it's retained by two screws on the inside of the cover, and they can work a little loose over time due to heat cycles and vibration.
1976 GT380 - wounded by me, and sold on
2006 SV650S - killed by a patch of diesel and a kerb in Feb 2019
2017 SV650 AL7 - naked and unashamed
Well here is where i'm at,
been working for the last 4 hours on the adjusting and it does not seem to change the clunking between shifts.After installing a like new condition bracket with retaining clip that i've had in spare parts I did center the bracket in the groove and I did this at the very top of the brackets travel so it at the most flush to the case position and did the adjustment with the push rod then backed off half a turn counterclockwise and tightened the nut.I've found
I have to have the case bolt turned almost to the limit counterclockwise and the adjuster near the lever almost all the way backed out just to get it to shift 1/2 way decent.
I would like to get the cover off to check the lifter assembly but one screw is being stubborn and won't come off.I did have the clutch lever off and may have tightened the nut down to hard on the perch and the lever may be binding slightly and not allowing for a full pull of the cable so I will check that next.
Yes, both ends of the cable adjustment is critical. Sometimes you have to allow more or less slack at the lever or clutch end. It often takes a couple attempts. How your cable is routed will play a big role in those adjustments as well. Make sure the cable is routed correctly and you have the correct length cable. Be sure the bracket doesn't slip off it's mounting groove during the process. Often it will slip off behind the washer without noticing if you don't hold it into position until the nut is tightened properly after the clutch rod adjustment. It it doesn't engage properly at half turn, try a quarter. Or vise versa. You'll get it. Nothing is likely mechanically wrong, with any parts if it engaged properly up to the point your cable broke. Unless, you were forcefully jamming the gearbox with the shifter in order to get it home. Still, unlikely. If you're ever in that position again. You can shift the bike with your throttle. Not needing a cable. The only time I ever use a clutch lever is in 1st and sometimes 2nd gear. After that, it's not needed if you get the engine speed fast enough.
Appreciate all the information.
It does seem like a fairly straight forward process for the adjustment.
When I had my tank off getting painted last week I did install the cable
correctly with no kinks etc.At the moment i've run into a snag as i've lost
the return spring and the observations I wrote in my earlier post today were
running the bike without that spring so it may be OK or not,just ordered a new spring and
will have to give an update one I receive it.
The bracket that the cable slips into appears in the picture to be cracked. If so, then given the loads on it, it will likely soon fail. I would suggest finding a used or new spare soon!
The pressure of the 6 clutch cover springs should push the clutch into engagement when the clutch lever is released but I would fit that external return spring anyway, to eliminate the chance that the cable nipple falls out of the bracket. As mentioned already, it should have an additional tab inside it that makes accidental cable fall-out impossible but thats also missing from your example.
I agree it should be possible to make the clutch work well again. It sounds like it is not disengaging fully. It may be that the clutch basket 'fingers' have be grooved or a plate bent or worn. So don't give up if the cable tweaks don't fully sort it. Its easily accessible once the right side cover is off, though of course you'd need to drop the oil and take off a few parts first.
Cheers,
Mike
I had a spare lying around thats in much better condition and now its installed.
It sounds like it is not disengaging fully.
In my estimation this is the main problem ,back to try ,try again mode for sorting this out.The pictures are what she looks like currently still have to get badges and decals as would like to keep it stock looking.
Something is wrong here. Maybe due to the missing spring, but the lever should be in the 4 o'clock position when relaxed. Plus it still doesn't look like it is properly keyed to the oblong boss behind the lever. Pull the hex nut off and pull off the lever. You will see that it only fits one way -- and it sure looks like that ain't it.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
If you look at the case to the left of the Suzuki "S" stamp. There is an arrow. That arrow needs to line up with the tiny notch at the very end of the bracket where the cable end attaches. You have to get that right and then do the clutch rod adjustment. You're cable is not even close to being adjusted correctly according to the last picture you posted. That exhaust appears to be in excellent condition. Some badges and seat trim would make that bike look fantastic.
Yes that was what I thought after looking at it the Chilton service manual also states to line up
with that casting mark.Looks like i'll take the whole setup up and redo.
The pipes are in great condition and nice and clean on the bottom with no rust that I can see although
the inner pipe looks like it has marks on it from battery acid that spilled out the overflow tube.
Also, I've found it is worth removing that cover and checking the whole lifter assembly is properly secured -- it's retained by two screws on the inside of the cover, and they can work a little loose over time due to heat cycles and vibration.
This is what i'll try next as it seems once I get all the settings so its shifting half way decent it seems to lose it settings and get back to the clunking which is mainly going into first from nuetral at a stop and the upshift to second.I'm getting the feeling when letting out the clutch from a standstil that something is moving or shifting on the left sde which may be the engager worm gear so i'll check that out once I get a impact driver to get the stuck philips head screw of the left case.
Not going to give up until I figure it out went on the bike went for an hour long ride tonight and besides the clunky shifting it ran great.
Hey guys need your help on this,
I finally got the stuck phillips head bolt and case off the question is am I missing one of the actuator
rods? I do not seem to have #14 per the schematic drawing.
What I have is the screw with the locknut #19 on the schematic and what is shown in my picture with the rod that sticks out of the seal.
Pushrod #14 is behind the pushrod you can see, it's also inside the hollow shaft.
Mike
Ps you can pull out your external rod and roll it to check it's not bent.
PPS if even when you've set the adjuster / lifter in the casing you have removed the clutch / box still clunks, my bet is fixable wear in your clutch (plates, basket fingers) under the right side cover. You'd need to drop the oil, and removed right exhaust to get that cover off. Bit of a pain actually, but don't give up!
I.m hoping its not the clutch it seems to have a solid bite with no slippage whatsoever.It has a Accent electronic ignition so it would not be that much of a deal to drop the right cover and look as at least I don't have to mess with the points setting on re-assembly.
Took the external rod and rolled it and its straight.I did order a new screw that threads through the worm gear in hopes that it may have been worn down.
