Suzuki 2 Strokes

So two basic questions here.

1.) Is there an easy drop in roller bearing replacement for the stock ball bearings? First time I've ever had to replace them

2.) My steering head nut was destroyed getting it off (it was seriously stuck) so I'm wondering if anyone sells a 6 point replacement for the original one instead of the weird 4 notch one it came with

-thanks

Which bike are you referring to? You should probably clarify.

If it's a t500, be careful ordering from all balls. The kit designed for the t500 doesn't fit. I actually ordered the kit designed for the kawasaki h1 on the advice of people on this forum and it dropped right in.

I'm going to have a wild stab here and suggest it's a GT750 as per his signature

Interesting info re the T500 though, cheers

Yup, 1975 GT750

I put all-balls tapered bearings in mine, the only bitch is you have to have the steering stem turned down by a machinist so it will fit the bearing , unless they have a new design ? I did mine a few years ago and it seems like every once in a while I need to tighten the damn thing? I checked the machinist work and he did exactly what the directions say, just letting you know my experience,,,also I haven't had to tighten it in almost a year , but I hardly ride it now .,,,,good luck ,,,,also I think some people say you can do it another way without taking it to a machinist but I just did what the instructions said to do,,,,,

interesting, I guess I'll have to google around some more and see what I can dig up. I was hoping for a relatively drop in solution. My budget for my rebuild is stretched as it is so I'm trying to avoid more machine shop work. Do you recall where you say someone do it themselves? I seem to remember seeing it somewhere but can't remember where...

To put in an 'All Balls' tapered roller set, you do need to thin the steering column a little bit below the shoulder that Suzuki machined for their OE and thinner roller ball lower race.
I've done three on Suzuki GT triples at home and only used a file then emory cloth...you're taking off very little metal.
Not sure how far down, perhaps 10mm further than the OE shoulder, so its not hard and its easy to throw into the steering stem, pop on the top bearing and yoke and check that it will bolt up. If the lower race won't go down far enough, you cannot get the assy to bolt down properly and it feels wobbly!
Good luck,
Mike

Good to know, thanks!

There's a handy diagram here showing the mods needed:-

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/suzuki/gt_7 ... set_japan/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

brilliant, thank you!

So does anyone know if you can buy a regular 6 point nut for the steering head????

I very much doubt it. The stock part works well, provided its tightened up using a steering head 'C spanner', which is a half-moon shaped tool with a hook on its end and a long handle for leverage. Cheap, pressed steel tool off ebay will do the trick. It doesn't do up very tight so no need for cold chisel abuse we often see!
Mike

A C spanner for locking an old style bottom bracket ring for a bicycle works as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Bottom- ... SwIzNXPEwW" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for the info. I've ordered a NOS steering head nut, as well as that bicycle wrench you linked to... This is a great site.

Every bearing set I've bought to retrofit onto a GT750 or RE5 has had the same issue. Basically the lower inner race is a bit too tall and so the dust seal rides outside the frame head tube and besides that the trees are to far apart so the head light ears fit slack.
This is something different to the machining of the stem at the top for the upper bearing to be located a bit lower on the stem.

After looking at the lower bearing carefully, I've had to grind and re-machine the lower facing part of the inner races base section and a section of the needle race cage to get the bearing 2.5mm thinner than how they come in the package.
Basically you want the dust seal to sit flush into the frame tube to keep out water and dust. Plus you need to ensure the original dimensions between the upper and lower trees are unchanged.


Heres how the modified bearing looks, the dust seal just clears the needle race cage and the outer race when its assembled. When its installed in the frame the dust seal now fits flush to the frame as it should and the fork ears fit snug as they should as well.