Suzuki 2 Strokes

Hello everyone.
I recently acquired another T500 project. As I was dismantling the engine I found that the oil line banjos were brittle and 2 of them cracked. These are the plastic ones that attach at the oil pump. Can these be repaired? If so, how? Can the remains of the old banjos be screwed out of the lines? Can metal banjos be used as a replacement? I know how hard it is to find these lines so any help would be greatly appreciated. Lastly, what is the brown material on the bottom of the line in the other picture?

Thank you

So I replaced the oil lines on an old gt250 engine I had. It was a while ago, so I don't remember where I found the Bango bolts, but I remember that I used soft clear generic tubing that fit, but later wished I had gotten a smaller diameter, as it kind of crimped under the oil pump cover.

This probably isnt the most helpful, but I saw no one else had replied.

Oh, and it looks like the lower one got cooked, and the plastic itself is burnt/bubbled.

Hi Sharky

Thank you for the reply. I have the banjo bolts, it is the banjo's themselves that I am looking for. Also, it makes sense that the bottoms are burned. That is what it looks like to me.

That "burnt part" looks like a repair to me, same where the black stuff is smeared on one of the lines, it's probably split under there. If they don't leak, you may be best leaving as is but you'll need to keep an eye out for any future leaks. As long as the banjos havn't been glued in place, you should be able to unscrew what's left of them with some careful manipulation. I never use them for anything else as I don't like them.... but an "easy-out" screw extractor may work. Stick the end of the pipe in a vice first to save damaging the seal where the line enters.

Also, Banjos are available here complete with check valve ball and spring.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-T250-G ... 7675.l2557

But you'll probably have to hunt down lines if you want to replace them, or find some tubing small enough to fit through the cover, and route it yourself.

Those check valves are also available under Kawasaki part number 16128-009. Depending on where you are located, it may be a cheaper option.

Are the Kawasaki ones the same spec.? Pressure etc?

If so v. interesting.

Do Kawasaki oil lines substitute too? (maybe with a bit of modding - cut and shut)

tricky1962 wrote:Are the Kawasaki ones the same spec.? Pressure etc?

Good question - the specification is a crack pressure of 4.3 lb/sq in, but I admit I haven't measured these. The 16128-009 valves were used on a wide range of Kawi 2 strokes, and the oil pump resembles the T500 one. I can tell you I have been using the Kawi valves on one of my GT750's, but unlike the T500 they are individual lines so I don't have to worry about pressure balancing. The oil pump is a positive displacement pump so all I'm really worried about are two things:

• - do they seal and prevent oil from draining through the pump into the engine when the engine isn't running ?

And:

• - do they crack open and allow oil to flow when the engine is running ?

So far the answer to both is 'Yes'. I test all the rebuilt lines over a few days to see if they pass oil, and I have a test rig I can install the lines on that I also use for testing oil pumps that I've rebuilt. You can watch a video of it here. For the T500, I would have said that so long as they seal well enough, if the crack pressure is close for both valves on each line then it should be OK. The real world test of course is on the bike, and my 'Oily Purple' is running Kawi oil valves just fine so far.

+1 on what Ian said. What I would not do is replace just one banjo valve with something other than a stock one. If you need to replace a defective valve with something modern, replace all the valves driven off the same part of the oil pump. Different cracking pressures for example on a 'triplet' of valves feeding the upper cylinders on a GT triple can easily lead to oil starvation on the cylinder with the valve with highest cracking pressure. The pump gives one stroke of its piston feeding the triplet and the oil goes where is easiest path is.
At least, this would be my approach to reduce wear and tear on my worry beads!
Mike

Interesting stuff

Thanks chaps