Suzuki 2 Strokes

I was told you can use Alum to dissolve the rust from the studs and it will not hurt the aluminum block and the barrels will come right off. Of course you have to buy new studs. Has anyone tried this? My friend works on musical instruments and uses it on brass that is stuck and oxidized. He also works on bikes.
http://hackaday.com/2015/08/03/dissolve ... e-grocery/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Also do you have to remove the engine out of the frame to remove the barrels.

Alum... learned something new!

I think the issue is rust (Iron oxide) so will Alum still work on that?

I wonder if you use Metal Rescue or Evapo Rust or WD-40 Rust Remover Soak first to get rid of rust first as much as possible.

The next issue is aluminum Oxide and not sure what if anything eats that up, but maybe once rust is gone if still stuck you can us Alum or a vicious puller.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqZYgReuywM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There is another video that might give some ideas on how to apply the solution to studs in an awkward position (excuse the cuss words and vulgarity). I came across the video a week or so ago and found it interesting but never thought about using it on the suzuki. Good thinking OP.

Would it would on stuck brass pilot jets? Now that would be something special. Alum probably only works on Iron/steel.

Again I think stuck GT750 cylinder is due to oxides of Iron and Aluminum. And that will block the Alum solution unless removed first.... but just a guess

Funny video

Yes, I agree the iron oxide could form an impervious layer to the alum solution, however I think that if a little bit of bare steel is exposed to the solution it would dissolve or eat away all of the steel and leave behind only the aluminum and the iron oxide and aluminum oxide, which isn't ideal but is better than rusty studs.

Here is another video from the same dude showing the same process. https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=7EHOjaWgLR8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I would expect that the supposed nitride coating (4:40 in the video) could act the same as a layer of rust. But then again I don't know, maybe the rust wouldn't hinder the process at all.

I'm not sure how the solution would react to brass. If you had a junk jet you could try just it in the solution. Are the carb bodies aluminum? I thought I read recently that they were something else, can't remember what that was or where I read that. Maybe a magnesium alloy?

I think my point is you don't need Alum. If you used modern rust remover bath that should do it. Once the rust is gone it should be free no need to dissolve steel anymore. The rust already made the steel studs thinner so once rust is removed it should free up. May take a few tries and some stirring and poking to get to bottom. My only unknown is how much of the binding is cause by Aluminum Oxide versus Iron Oxide. It may be more of the former, but removing rust alone may do the trick. Any tricks to remove Aluminum Oxide? I think that stuff is very robust.

I have heard of others thinking this way (rust remover bath) recently too, but have not heard if it worked. I don't have a stuck GT750 to try at the moment


You have good point about carb material. But think Alum reacts to steel/Iron only. would need to prove that.

If you get Alum some try it out. Not sure where I would get some. Walmart, Home depot. Tractor Supply, Runnings.

Alum is cool but think limit to relatively pure Iron/steel. Prove me wrong. Next Time I have stuck anything involving rust I will use the miracle rust remove products. Came across these couple years back and so far it have been to good to be true. In fact no one should need to reline a gas tank unless it has holes after applying rust remover, or you are into coating clean steel. So far I have not coasting ant tanks and non have flash rust either. even if it did just soak again a line.

I'll back off and see what people learn.

Vintageman wrote:I think my point is you don't need Alum. If you used modern rust remover bath that should do it. Once the rust is gone it should be free no need to dissolve steel anymore. The rust already made the steel studs thinner so once rust is removed it should free up.

Yes, you make a good point here, deal with the corrosion and the steel shouldn't cause a problem, as in the case of the GT750 barrels. Dissolving steel is still useful when you need to remove steel but can't grab it for whatever reason (broken off flush) and don't have a welder.

Vintageman wrote:If you get Alum some try it out. Not sure where I would get some. Walmart, Home depot. Tractor Supply, Runnings.

Alum is cool but think limit to relatively pure Iron/steel. Prove me wrong. Next Time I have stuck anything involving rust I will use the miracle rust remove products. Came across these couple years back and so far it have been to good to be true. In fact no one should need to reline a gas tank unless it has holes after applying rust remover, or you are into coating clean steel. So far I have not coasting ant tanks and non have flash rust either. even if it did just soak again a line.

I'm sure there are other places a person can get it, but since it is an ingredient used for pickling it can be picked up at most grocery stores.

when you say "pure iron/steel" do you mean uncorroded or do you mean mild steel/ low alloy? In the second video I linked the guy dissolved a tap in the solution, that wouldn't have been plain mild steel. Im curious to know why it dissolves steel but doesn't touch aluminum, and what other metals it would and wouldn't dissolve. I might have to look into that.


Do you have a link to the miracle rust remover products you mention? sounds interesting...

google on Metal Rescue, Evapo Rust or WD-40 Rust Remover Soak. (there are others an think youtube vids comparing stuff)
For example http://www.workshophero.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Alum is a good trick as well!

I have used Metal Rescue (Best IMO needs to soak longer but then works better) and Evapo Rust is OK. I recently saw the WD-40 stuff in Home Depot Auto section but have not tried. I think the warmer the air temp the better, but don't have to heat like Alum.

Another relatively new miracle product is Blue Devil Seal Conditioner or ATP AT-205 (I prefer). If you have rubber seals that are not damaged, just dried it does the trick and doesn't gel them out. Well the only thing (which is a miracle IMO) it works on for me are seals that don't have metal spring forcing the seal lip onto shaft. These leak slow and may not be seen with positive leak down test (maybe it will negative). If Your bike smokes and pulling from it from gear oil this may do it. For example this can be found in the T/GT x50 twins center two seals. I have paid and waited for many a crank rebuild and doing so now, but if that is the only issue above, worth a try if it isn't against your religion. If your leak down test shows a fast off fast it ain't going to work. Seal is junk. Miracles don't occur that often.

All of these ideas sound sensible but the cold hard truth is the corrosion is so tightly packed around the studs it defies everything you throw at it. Even after soaking most barrels I've removed, when lifted the wonder solutions have never gotten anywhere down into the layers of crud around the studs.
Just use the puller plate method and take your time. This seems to be the best solution.

Suzsmokeyallan wrote:All of these ideas sound sensible but the cold hard truth is the corrosion is so tightly packed around the studs it defies everything you throw at it. Even after soaking most barrels I've removed, when lifted the wonder solutions have never gotten anywhere down into the layers of crud around the studs.
Just use the puller plate method and take your time. This seems to be the best solution.

Your right....but the Alum will dissolve all ferrous metals. The stud has expanded probably 3 times it's size. Alum will dissolve it all.

I mentioned my first post my friend is a musician and professionally repairs them. He uses alum when brass has oxidized solid to another part and the part now comes right off. He is also a motorcycle guy and great mechanic and I was telling about the barrels on my GT and he said that would definitely work well on that application and not harm the aluminum.

Try it and let us know.


Lane