rngdng wrote:If you compare a pre-73 intake port to a post-73 it's SOOOO obvious why the jetting changed. HUGEDIFFERENCE! The late-models were very restricted compared to the earlier ones.
Lane
Can the restriction be changed and rejet so it would run like the earlier models? What would have to be done?
Yeap I'm planning on taking a Dremel and a Die Grinder to all of that mess in a Set of Cylinders I have.
debby wrote:Air screws are at 1.5 turns out, BTW. The 30 pilot jets were too lean, 35's seem just right.
Yeah, it would seem so.
BTW, you said you have an off-idle stumble with the needles in the 3rd notch, but it got way too rich when you raised 'em one notch. Is that correct? Could you define "way too rich" a bit more? Did it stumble worse?
Bikegeezer wrote:
BTW, you said you have an off-idle stumble with the needles in the 3rd notch, but it got way too rich when you raised 'em one notch. Is that correct? Could you define "way too rich" a bit more? Did it stumble worse?
Geez
It's more of a flat spot rather than a stumble, at very low throttle settings (1/8-1/4). It's below the needle jet range, more in the realm of the throttle cutaway. I mainly notice it when pulling away from stops, particularly if I try to accelerate "quickly".
When I tried raising the needles, I had bad eight-stroking at around 1/2 throttle. With the clips back in the stock position it runs clean at mid-throttle. Plug color looks good too.
It's interesting that I have to jet richer on the bottom end, stock in the mid range, and leaner on top. Pods usually require richer jetting but our altitude requires leaner jetting. I think the two are somewhat canceling each other out. Maybe the mufflers don't flow so well at higher throttle and load settings, hence the leaner main jets. A set of expansion chambers might work wonders for the bike. I like my bikes stock though.
What kind of pod air filters are you running as i have read the thinner type with a flat chrome back can really mess up jetting and it wasnt till they put on some UNI's or K&N's or the stock box could they get the jetting worked out .
The filters are UNI pods with rubber flanges for clamping to the carbs. They're not the kind with the chrome end caps, they're basically socks. The filter area is 4-3/4 inches long by 3 inches diameter. The foam color is gray, not lime green if that makes any difference.
Yes, they are oiled, with BelRay filter oil. PO didn't know you're supposed to oil them and they were dry as a bone when I got the bike.
I oiled my GT750's new aftermarket airfilter with Bel Ray filter oil that I was using on my dirtbike, oiled it heavy like I did for my dirtbike, around my house (500 ft. elevation) it ran fine but when I went to the mountains in North Caroline and got about 2000 ft. it started to smoke. Now I know it's supposed to smoke but I mean it was laying down huge amounts of smoke, I hated for anybody to ride behind me. I washed it out and oiled it with regular motor oil and it's like it's supposed to be, makes a lot of difference, at least it did in mine.
starter clutch
carburetors-fuel petcock
gauges
seat cover pattern
loops for springs on exhaust headers
throttle pull
various cosmetic bits
PS: All else fails, send the 73 to me!!!
Also...
Top ends are different to allow for clearance differences between the individual carbs and the rack carbs.
Throttle cable is different.
Choke mechanism is different
Frame is different
Exhaust is different
Side covers are different
Neutral light only on the 73...gear position indicator on the 74-up.
Sunday , 23rd, was warm, dry & beautifull in denver.
I took her out for a small spin up to the foothills and back.
heres a shot by redrocks.. probably last time this year as it has now snowed 4-6 inches in denver today.
she runs so nice when its cold outside!
Pulled the back wheel as the rim is ugly and not up to the standard of other bits. It's away being rechromed.
My question: Should I re-zinc the original spokes (they're good condition), get some NOS ones from PM, buy some cheaper (chrome plated steel, from Singapore) ones off ebay, get the wheel guy to make up some new ones or...?
I would be concerned about a cheap chrome plate on so many pcs. that you have to keep up with- then you have to have chrome on the front to make it look right---- too me, it would look" too much" I would go with the originals.
