Here it is, my 74 GT550

[SW550]

Uneventful round trip of 2300miles after dropping my friend off (shotgun rider).
Starts/runs well but loud as the baffles are shot. That is ok though as the rebuild will be ongoing for sometime.
Doesn't seem to have any bad issues with it, just some of the chrome is pitted and the outer exhaust pipes (under the riders footpegs) have seen the payment more than once. Have noticed that used stock pipes are available at decent prices if you take the time to search for them.
Wish I was a m/c dealer as I did find some brand new unopened parts for this GT but after the dealer adds his min 40% markup it really makes the new parts hurt my wallet too much, lol.
Here are a few Pics as it is right now.


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[Cliff]

Nice bike!! Here's a pic of mine: download/file.php?id=1428" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CBWELLS]

SAH-WEET Bike. Love that paint scheme too. One of my favorites. I noticed the seat cover is torn. I got a nice replacement on eBay. There are several available at prices from about $30 to $60. Easy to replace too!
Good Luck with the old girl. They're sweet rides. Keep us posted!

[pearljam724]

As far as bringing that up to what most people consider par. Your bike won't be all that expensive. As you're already ahead of the game with tank, side covers and exhaust appear to be in pretty good condition. When fixing these bikes up those are on top of the list as far as cost. What needs mostly done to your bike is pretty much costless. But, takes a fair amount of time and elbow grease. By polishing the motor cases she'll look very good. Im sure your fasteners look aged as well. If you look in the right place, that can be very affordable too. Otherwise, if you buy them from the wrong seller it can be quite expensive. I replaced nearly every fastener on a restored bike with stainless allan heads. With the exception of a couple dozen that I wanted to remain Suzuki bolts. Therefore, I purchased those few directly from Suzuki. While the stainless allans came extremely affordable from Albanyfasteners.com You'd be very surprised by replacing the raggy looking fasteners as far as the appearance of these bikes. That's one of my favorite original GT paint schemes also.

[SW550]

As far as bringing that up to what most people consider par. Your bike won't be all that expensive. As you're already ahead of the game with tank, side covers and exhaust appear to be in pretty good condition. When fixing these bikes up those are on top of the list as far as cost. What needs mostly done to your bike is pretty much costless. But, takes a fair amount of time and elbow grease. By polishing the motor cases she'll look very good. Im sure your fasteners look aged as well. If you look in the right place, that can be very affordable too. Otherwise, if you buy them from the wrong seller it can be quite expensive. I replaced nearly every fastener on a restored bike with stainless allan heads. With the exception of a couple dozen that I wanted to remain Suzuki bolts. Therefore, I purchased those few directly from Suzuki. While the stainless allans came extremely affordable from Albanyfasteners.com You'd be very surprised by replacing the raggy looking fasteners as far as the appearance of these bikes. That's one of my favorite original GT paint schemes also.

pearljam,
Exhaust Pipes are worst than the pic's show, all but three have welded metal plates or screwed in plates on the bottom sides, I guess the pipes rusted out.
The Left Outer exhaust seems ok except for some stains here and there on the chrome, some right above the footpeg and also at the rear footpeg, no matter what I have tried the stain remains, I'm thinking something must of gotten spilled onto the chrome and ate into the chrome.
I already ordered and received the left inner exhaust and its in pretty good shape, still looking for the two pipes for the right side. I know about Ebay too and just because it is on Ebay doesn't mean it is the best price, I'm looking elsewhere as well.
All four Baffles are shot and new ones are ordered.
What is the best method to get the shine back on the engine side cases and the Ram Air Cooling shoud? I'm up to the job of getting the shine back, just send along some tips.
I was amazed on the condition of the painted parts, the other pieces of chrome didn't fair as well but that can be done piece by piece.
Cables and other fasteners are on my list to replace.
What about the Chain? What is recommended these days? Using a Chain Link ok? or not?
I'll look into the stainless allans too.

Cliff:
Nice looking GT you have there, in time mine will be just like it.

CBwells:
Thanks for the suggestion on the seat covers, I'll be getting one for sure.

[ConnerVT]

A lot of things in your post. I'll try to address some of them:

-- Stains on the exhaust are likely from battery acid. Look at where the discharge tube for the lead acid battery is, and add some windage. Since it is a chemical reaction stain, the only way I know to eliminate it is to rechrome. I live with it on my T500.

-- Polishing the aluminum case covers is easy enough. Suzuki put a clear coat over the cases/covers (don't know about the Ram Air cover). Get some spray on paint remover from the auto parts store (chem gloves, eye protection, and some plastic scrappers/putty knives too). Follow the directions, spray on, and wait for it to bubble (it likes warm temps). Then clean the old coat off. Normal aluminum polishing after that - start with whatever grit you need to get the big scratches out, work to finer grit, then to buffing rouge, until it is as shiny as you wish.

[SW550]

A lot of things in your post. I'll try to address some of them:

-- Stains on the exhaust are likely from battery acid. Look at where the discharge tube for the lead acid battery is, and add some windage. Since it is a chemical reaction stain, the only way I know to eliminate it is to rechrome. I live with it on my T500.

-- Polishing the aluminum case covers is easy enough. Suzuki put a clear coat over the cases/covers (don't know about the Ram Air cover). Get some spray on paint remover from the auto parts store (chem gloves, eye protection, and some plastic scrappers/putty knives too). Follow the directions, spray on, and wait for it to bubble (it likes warm temps). Then clean the old coat off. Normal aluminum polishing after that - start with whatever grit you need to get the big scratches out, work to finer grit, then to buffing rouge, until it is as shiny as you wish.

ConnerVT,
Thanks for the info, I'll give it a try.
The left outer exhaust pipe I will just live with, it really isn't that bad and nothing else is bad with that one Vs the other three.
My m/c hydraulic lift stand came in so it won't be much longer and I will be starting the restore project.

[Suzsmokeyallan]

I know its going to take some time but the bike will end up looking great once you can slowly chip away all the issues. A lot of people think its all about how much money you can throw at it but a lot of the time its how you go about doing the cosmetic restoration of the good parts that really does a lot to the overall appearance of the finished product.
I've posted this bike before on the site but since its the identical model to yours, have a look at it for inspiration.

[Vintageman]

Looks almost too nice to use… some of the restoration I have done have come out OK, but that one looks perfect. However, A few thousand miles of riding they won't look new anymore unfortunately.

[yeadon_m]

Vintageman,
Too true. This one I finished today and is too good to ride on muddy UK roads in November, but will get plenty of thrashing post run-in next spring
Cheers,
Mike
GT380B, GT550B, GT750A

[ConnerVT]

I have to agree. Beauty queens are just too much high maintenance. Give me a girl who looks good for her age, and is fun to ride.

[Vintageman]

Beautiful again

That’s why you need more than one and of the same model: One to ride and one to show. I have tried to get one of each 2 stroke road bike (now on - off is my goal). I have not tried to get duplicates. I have long run out of room to store what I have now. Just made o new 20" x 12" shed for my 12" x 24" and part of my garage is full.

My goal today is to try and make sure they run well and without worries. Even this for me requires significant effort, these things are old and if they could speak of their past life. I have no more patientd, nor skill, lazy too maybe, to make all my projects as or better than new .

You don’t even have to ride and they get old looking too!

Here in New Hampshire with the 4 seasons- Weather Warm ronts to and from Cold fronts that cycle through quickly, unless you have perfect environmentally controlled storage they get old looking in time.

I have outside storage, fairly tight door seals, party insulated, but not heated or humidity controlled. Still see a Coke bottle effect (condensation droplets when warm moist air hits the cold).

So not only do you have to watch how you ride, you need good storage (bedroom or living rooms of your home for example!).
I have put WD40 on my metal parts (not decals it will eat them for example). WD40 now has something kind of new out there for storage protection??). WD40 is a bit messy, but cleans OK in Spring. I see where it gets milky from moisture…

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Its possible to ride a bike often and still keep it spotless, you just need to keep ahead of the dirt and have a regime for dealing with the crevices and hard to reach places.
I've found that S100 cleaner is very good and moving road grime from places you cant easily reach.

[yeadon_m]

To eliminate cold weather / temp change condensation, install an extractor fan that changes the room / storage area air several times per hour. This transformed my shed and no condensation any longer.
Still, its a battle against entropy, is keeping something 'new', new.
Mike

[Vintageman]

Good feedback. Things I did not consider/know.

S100 eh!. I'll look into that. So far I found just gentle soap and water and a soft brush, but not ideal cleaner to much time needed . Other cleaners and degreasers work fast but ruin your finish, but at times I'll have build up and give in to them.


What if the outside air is near 100% humidity? Do you cycle that in? I think the point is to keep the metal temp changing along with outside so one never leads the other by much so no condensation.

But I found there are many place on the bikes - in my shed (packed in too tightly maybe) that seams to trap air pockets or eddy's that won't change out fast enough unless significant convection about them I suppose. I was thinking more towards insulating shed better to keep the temp change slow. But if air at or near 100% screwed. Maybe a dehumidifier. But never figured out cost to run it.

In the meantime I just spray WD40. I'll try to find their new stuff for storage.

Also I have some venting in buildings since I keep my gas tanks full and want some venting to relive tank venting fumes. I drain carb bowls but still gas tanks have vents.

What do you guys do for gas tanks? I keep full of gas, put Dry Gas and little oil.

Good stuff