Suzuki 2 Strokes

This can be restored and after a quick assessment it only needs a new glass lens, a trip knob boot and knob I had spare lying around.


This is how it looked before any work was started.


The same section of the outer case once most of the damage has been removed. Media blasting is next and then onto finer detailing of the metal.


The face is original print and looks great now its been restored.


Now all the restorative work is complete, the gauge looks quite good. The photo is inverted so you can see the same angle as the original.

Very nice detailing. I don't think I have the patience for that type of work.

What did you use to clean the dial face?

The gauge faces are restored using a few proprietary processes I developed for such work.

Cards close to the chest there mate...

On another subject, has anyone got to the bottom of the inconsistencies of the GT500 A and GT500B which can have different colour clock faces?
There's a brown and a blue colour. I'm wondering if, because of the overlap of the GT 500 with the 380 and 550, whether Suzi did a bit of pragmatic parts-bin engineering.
?

I do gauge restoration work as a business, showing the results in photos means showing whats possible. So yes I do keep my secrets to my self so I can stay in business.

Suzuki began to use brown faced gauges for the 77 models, the dark blue was effectively in use until around July of 76. Bikes made after September are in effect the following years models, so by the time 77 models reached showrooms around November of 76, those bikes would have been 77 models with the brown faced gauges.

Suzuki did use up parts left on the assembly line during every model years transition, or threw on new model year parts if the present stock was exhausted during the model year shift. This is why some very late 76 model Buffalos ended up with brown faced gauges as did other models.
On the 250, 380, 500 and 550 when the face colour changed the gauges were also going through another upgrade. Around the middle of 76 the white plastic cases were changed over to metal bodies. Another thing to note is needle buttons, only the 250 and 380 got the chrome buttons, I have yet to find any 500 or 550 with the chrome buttons, that is UNTIL you see the JDM bikes.
Here is a set of gauges for a 76 550 with the dark blue faces in the metal bodies.

Ta for the info mate.

Fair enough. Maybe I can pic your brain a little though. If I decide to clean mine, are the gauge faces easily damaged? Is there a common cleaner that would provide acceptable results (even if its not as amazing as yours)?

I strongly suggest you let someone whos skilled in the specific restoration work for the type of gauge you have do the required job. Every gauge is assembled differently according to its design, and so each case type requires correct opening and closure procedures plus the specific restoration techniques needed for that gauge.
I work on the ones for the models I've listed in the services section, and this is only after I bought an initial set to work on and figured whats needed to correctly restore them.
You are focusing on the face, but what about the other critical parts inside that also need restoration. Its impossible to merely 'clean' a 40 year old gauge and think that will be good enough, theres way more work involved to make it right.
What gauges are you attempting to work on?

I was pondering opening and cleaning the gauges on my gt750. I don't have the funds to pay simon else to do i. I've taken apart and repaired gauge sets from cars before but not bikes.

Like most things, it's not such a big deal. Yes you need to take great care, and tread pretty carefully.
You might need to make a tool to help remove the bezel. I've fixed a few instruments successfully but have never needed to repair the actual mechanism apart from cleaning, lubrication etc.

joolestacho said

it's not such a big deal.

I've heard those words said many times before by various people, only to see it come back to bite them really hard.

How hard is it just to remove the gauge face and glass?

You don't. You remove the clock from the back, then do the faces.
The fun starts then, and gets better as you try to sort the 'gubbins' inside.
Putting it all back together is also fun - if you're a masochist.
I've tried, mine work-ish, but they're not 100% - far from it.
If you can't afford to do it right, then get an electronic tach/speedo. It doesn't look as pretty though.

Thanks, When eventually get to that point in my project (its going to be a while) I might go down to my kcal bike wrecker and pick up a couple sets to "play with" before I try to do anything with mine.