Suzuki 2 Strokes

Anyone tried restoring their handle bar switches and have a good option for the orangeish/redish paint? I restored my Honda switches using a color i found in a local craft store. It was close, but didn't look identical to the stock switch color.

at the risk of being labeled a switch anorak again ,
i used a orange dykem brite-mark paint pen.
which gave me a close match on my 73 gt750.
i just daubbed it on the lettering and wipped the excess of with a cloth .
my 2 cents.
mark

Likewise, I used a Testor model paint using a similar technique - seems to have worked OK. I think I first read about this method on Gunnar's web site ....

Two good ideas...thanks for the input. I hadn't seen Gunner's site before...a lot of good info and pics.

Here are some pics of the restored GT500 switch. Everything came apart, blasted, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled. I picked up new switch knobs and screws from the dealer for $9. I repainted with a semi gloss black paint and ended up reusing the oil based artist paint from AC Moore for the lettering. I looked around for other lettering color options, but this one still looked to be the closest to the old stock color.
Before:


After:

Nicely done !

pukka job alright

Fantastic looking.

Ok that looks great, even a new counter sunk screw for the switch facing the camera, but what happened to the little white recessed part on the indicator slider

OK, you caught me being a little lazy! You're right, it should be cleaned up as well to really make it 100%.

CJF wrote:Anyone tried restoring their handle bar switches and have a good option for the orangeish/redish paint? I restored my Honda switches using a color i found in a local craft store. It was close, but didn't look identical to the stock switch color.

I had a go at mine and i think for a first attempet, came out ok! I am waiting on a used switch (from a fellow member) and i will finish off the other side. But have this for now.

Thats looking so much better than how it was, why not get the correct connections for the wire ends from vintage connections, it will look correct and they fit better than those red ones.
For the 72 left switch make up some clear plastic sheet pieces the same size as the knob (the thin stiff type you find on certain blister packaging) to act as a slider to place behind the knobs. This way the knobs move across easier than grinding into the housing as they do normally.

looks like you went with a satin finish black, which i like. It probably looks a little closer to stock oem than the black i used. What did you end up using for the lettering? Restoring switches is pretty satisfying if you ask me...it is cheap, easy doesn't take much time and you can end up with a part that looks brand new.

CJF wrote:looks like you went with a satin finish black, which i like. It probably looks a little closer to stock oem than the black i used. What did you end up using for the lettering? Restoring switches is pretty satisfying if you ask me...it is cheap, easy doesn't take much time and you can end up with a part that looks brand new.

Hello and welcome to my workshop! I use cratf/hobby paint, as it is good and cheap, and does the job. I went for the satin matt black, as i was trying to get close to original, when new. The black is very good too, and if you slightley heat up the part to be painted,( foot pegs, small parts) will leave no brush marks when dry. see front center Rota/ brake caliper/points cover lettering D.O.H.C painted black, on my z900. With the lettering, you can see the Colour i used, with the arrows, and if you mix some red in with the orange, (not in the pot) you will get a deeper richer colour too.
I use very small brushes too (not cheap) to do the small work.

Suzsmokeyallan wrote:Thats looking so much better than how it was, why not get the correct connections for the wire ends from vintage connections, it will look correct and they fit better than those red ones.
For the 72 left switch make up some clear plastic sheet pieces the same size as the knob (the thin stiff type you find on certain blister packaging) to act as a slider to place behind the knobs. This way the knobs move across easier than grinding into the housing as they do normally.

Thanks for the tip, on the switches (the clear plastic) as you carn't find the slither of copper that's there, they glide niceley now, and no rubbing.