Suzuki 2 Strokes

hi im new to the site and just recently rebuilt a 73 ts400 and ran it with no battery and the lights on by accident it blew the headlamp and gauge lights out of it so im looking for a new headlamp if anyone knows where to find a replacement for a reasonable price or some retro fit suggestions that would be great thanks i could use some other electrical parts such as rectifier any info would be great im also looking for some jets to thanks

Is your bike 6V or 12V?

Does this wiring diagram look correct for your bike?
http://suzukits.informe.com/gallery/TS2 ... m.jpg.html

How many wires go to your rectifier & what colors are they?

Yes that is my wiring diagram and there is 4 wires coming off 3 yellows 1 red and a ground black with white stripe

Oregon Motorcycle Parts has a universal rectifier that will work.
See model R255a for $46
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers3p.html

The wiring diagram doesn't show a voltage regulator. The bike uses the battery as the voltage regulator.
You just experienced the consequence of not having any voltage regulator.
So you might want to consider adding a voltage regulator.

If your bike is 12V, then Oregon Motorcycle Parts has a regulator/rectifier that will replace your rectifier & also act as a voltage regulator.
If you use the battery, then model VRRPM3S for $86 will work.
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html


Either choice will work -- I've done both.
The T350 shown in my avatar also uses the battery as the voltage regulator.
My GT250 didn't have a voltage regulator & I switched to a regulator/rectifier.

One limitation…
If you stick with just a rectifier, then you have to use a conventional battery like the bike originally had. Don't upgrade to an AGM or gel battery.

Thanks buddy that's great but why can't a gel battery be used just out of curiosity

Because your bike, in stock form, does not have a voltage regulator. It uses the battery to act as a regulator (which is why you blew bulbs running without a battery).

Lead acid batteries are very tolerant of being over voltage. Other types of batteries (AGM, gel, Lithium Ion) are not. They will fail prematurely and/or with catastrophic results if higher than designed voltages are applied.

+1 on ConnerVT's explanation.

The maximum voltage for AGM & gel batteries is around 14.5 to 14.7V, depending on the specific battery.

In stock form, the max voltage on your bike might be around 16V.
This is too high for any of the sealed batteries.

Thanks for the info appreciate it

bcets,

I also happen to be rescuing a 1973 TS400. A (largely complete) survivor found in Reno.
Just starting to delve into the electrical system, I was told that the rectifier was bad, I have seen the oregonmotorcycle link previously and it appears that electrosport makes a unit for the GT triples that may be suitable as well. I'd be happy to compare notes as the situation evolves, I will be checking the aforementioned rectifier as per the manual in the next couple of days and calling electrosport to discuss...
Nobody has answered your headlight question, and I have been searching for a suitable and reasonably priced solution to my burned out sealed beam for the past day or so. Has anyone been able to graft an automotive sealed beam or find a modern H3/H4 substitute?

Greeting from NC, my first post here begging for help...

I just finished a 1972 TS400 street tracker project (was totally worn out and in boxes when I got it). I'm having different electrical problems. I bought a universal 2 phase rectifier/regulator - two yellow wires, one red one black. I just capped the yellow/white wire and ran the two yellow wires from the stator to the R/R, then ran the black to the frame and the red to the battery/load per the diagram. I don't seem to have enough voltage to keep any charge on the battery, which is unfortunately for me a gel cell. I guess what I have now is a permanent daytime set up, which simply will not give enough current to charge with the headlight on all the time. Does this sound right? I guess I will need one of the those 3-yellow-wire R/Rs from Oregon, too?

I don't really understand how the day/night switch works or or why they used it. Can anyone explain?

Except for this small problem, the bike is a total blast to ride. I put the front end from a 98 RM250 (shortened 5 inches DTX style) on it, akronts, a Circle F pipe and replaced every nut, bolt, bearing, bushing and seal. I geared it 17/39 so while it's a bit slow off the line it's crazy fast winding up through 3rd and 4th gear. There's nothing like a big-bore 2-stroke!

I'd post a photo but don't know how to do it.

The alternator includes a lighting coil. It is switched on & off.
WIth the lights switched off, the lighting coil is also switched off & the alternator has reduced output.
With the lights switched on, the lighting coil is switched on & the alternator has enough output to power the lights.

You have not wired up lighting coil. (You capped the yellow/white wire.)
So you don't have enough alternator output to power the lights.

A gel battery is very sensitive to over voltage.
If you stick with the gel battery, then you need a regulator/rectifier like the one I recommended from Oregon Motorcycle Parts (model VRRPM3S).

If you switch back to a stock battery, where you have to add water occasionally, then you can use a rectifier like the one I recommended from Oregon Motorcycle Parts (model R255a).

Its also worth thinking about your headlight.
The 72 TS400 uses a flat-bottom headlight that is no longer available & can be quite pricey if you find one.
You might consider getting a spare if you find one at a reasonable price.

I'd assumed that by omitting the yellow/white wire that I was putting both coils in series. Looking at the ground path, I now see the error of my ways. Re that battery, I built a custom box for it out of 503 stainless, so I will stick with what I have for now. The smart move for me will be to get the R/R from Oregon Motorcycle Parts, which I will do today.

The bike was a literal basket case when I got it, the lights were long gone and all the wire from that half of the stator was taped up. I completely rewired the entire bike. It now has a repro CB350 shell on it with a conventional headlight and an LED tail light. Are the LED headlights a smaller electric load? If they are I might try one of those out.

Thanks a lot for your help. I will keep you posted with the results.

LED lights use a lot less power than conventional lights.

Haven't looked into LED lighting, so I can't comment I what LED lighting upgrades conform to the DOT rules & regulations.

I'll throw in my last 2 cents... My solution for the hard to find sealed beam was a late '70s halogen shell from a GS1000 (Stanley 001-2106). It fit perfectly into the stock trim ring and rim, the only difficulty was the bending of the tab for the adjustment screw. But the result was nearly perfect and 35w H4 bulbs are readily available. The stock rectifier is nearly bulletproof, not sure how hard they are to find, but mine tested (and is) good. Some minor wiring cleanup and a battery connector jumper/plug from ebay, my TS is fully functional.

So can you get a 6volt glob to fit that set up? I know it's a long shot . I got a 76 400, that and the 77B are 6 volt.
Also got a sealed beam 12 volt for a TS 400 Stanley. I want $200 for it as is what I payed, new, never used. When I bought my bike, bought it, then discovered it was 6 volt, seller did not want it back. So I am stuck with it.
Thanks