Oil injection

[T250hustla]

Hey guys first post here. I have a 71' t250 with 16k miles. In my opinion its in great shape. One of the carbs was rebuilt, cleaned with other one. Got it to start but the slides are sticking, when i fix that it should be good. But i was curious how to check if the oil injection is working properly? I disconnected it and used premix and oil clogged the petcockafter a few kicks so im not going with that method. Started up with the straight gas and starting fluid. Wont stay running. Fuel coming out of petcock upon kicking, so imm pretty confident the problem lies in the slides sticking.

[oldjapanesebikes]

........ disconnected it and used premix and oil clogged the petcockafter a few kicks so im not going with that method.

Welcome !

There are loads of possible reasons why it won't stay running, but pre-mix would not clog your petcock. It is the same viscosity as gasoline when mixed at 40:1, so something else is doing the clogging. And if your fuel slides are sticking again after the carburettors have been cleaned, then it must be something in the tank that is washing through. The most likely culprit would be gums/varnish from old fuel being dissolved in the new ethanol fuel you have to deal with these days. It could also be an old tank liner that is starting to dissolve, again due to ethanol.

For the oil lines - just use a different colour of injector oil, while running premix - and you should be able to see the oil moving in the lines. Once you are happy that the oil is actually being injected, then you can stop using the pre-mix. If you think you need to flush the lines, then just be sure you do not blow them out with an air gun as doing so will almost always permanently ruin the check valves in the ends.

[Warehouse1001]

........ disconnected it and used premix and oil clogged the petcockafter a few kicks so im not going with that method.

Welcome !

There are loads of possible reasons why it won't stay running, but pre-mix would not clog your petcock. It is the same viscosity as gasoline when mixed at 40:1, so something else is doing the clogging. And if your fuel slides are sticking again after the carburettors have been cleaned, then it must be something in the tank that is washing through. The most likely culprit would be gums/varnish from old fuel being dissolved in the new ethanol fuel you have to deal with these days. It could also be an old tank liner that is starting to dissolve, again due to ethanol.

For the oil lines - just use a different colour of injector oil, while running premix - and you should be able to see the oil moving in the lines. Once you are happy that the oil is actually being injected, then you can stop using the pre-mix. If you think you need to flush the lines, then just be sure you do not blow them out with an air gun as doing so will almost always permanently ruin the check valves in the ends.

Ruin them it will! Don't ask me how I know...learned this one the hard way years ago on a Kawasaki triple. Ian, my question is do you know if the red colored lines and the clear(er) lines are interchangeable? Looks like they changed the color at least somewhere along the line. I have an NOS red set I'd like to use on my 74 L model but would like to confirm. They look identical other than the color. Thanks! Chuck

[oldjapanesebikes]

The red lines were used on the early models, and then they changed to the white/clear ones sometime after 1973. I admit I don't know when. Functionally though, they are identical.

[T250hustla]

........ disconnected it and used premix and oil clogged the petcockafter a few kicks so im not going with that method.

Welcome !

There are loads of possible reasons why it won't stay running, but pre-mix would not clog your petcock. It is the same viscosity as gasoline when mixed at 40:1, so something else is doing the clogging. And if your fuel slides are sticking again after the carburettors have been cleaned, then it must be something in the tank that is washing through. The most likely culprit would be gums/varnish from old fuel being dissolved in the new ethanol fuel you have to deal with these days. It could also be an old tank liner that is starting to dissolve, again due to ethanol.

For the oil lines - just use a different colour of injector oil, while running premix - and you should be able to see the oil moving in the lines. Once you are happy that the oil is actually being injected, then you can stop using the pre-mix. If you think you need to flush the lines, then just be sure you do not blow them out with an air gun as doing so will almost always permanently ruin the check valves in the ends.

Thank you! I cleaned the tank with a salt/vinegar shake method, muriatic acid a few times. Some purple power, water then some pb blaster because its supposedly leaves a film. Id say got 95% of the rust.

What i keep finding in the pepcock bowl is a thick, thick gunk. After cleaning out completely with carb cleaning, boiling it and reinstalling twice. Draining tank twice (using pure gas now) opened the freshly cleaned carbs as said before and they were gunked. The next day after a short battery charge and cleanig the carbs, the bike started without starting fluid, idled and revved. Drove about 10 feet and then wouldnt stay running again, even with starting fluid. Charging the battery overnight now to assure a full charge, ind of just bs charged it before. And ill check and clean the carbs again in the morning and try it out... god i wanna get this running.



Could you tell me how to bleed this bikes oil lines? And also some of the other issues that could cause this. I ask because you seem to have knowledge on the bike

[Warehouse1001]

The red lines were used on the early models, and then they changed to the white/clear ones sometime after 1973. I admit I don't know when. Functionally though, they are identical.

Good to know Ian! Thanks....Chuck