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Points & Condenser
Posted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 10:51 pm
by TLRam1
One set of my points arc compared to the other two.
What makes points arc?
On my 380 the Center Cylinder was not firing on a consistent basis, after doing much un-needed carb cleaning I found the Center points arcing badly, replaced the condenser and the Center cylinder started firing on a regular basis but still arcing much more than the others.
These are newly installed points and condensers with about 3-400 miles on them, yet the condenser went out.
I'm guessing I need to try and replace the points but if the arcing continues and I ruin a set of points that's what I am trying to avoid.
Do points cause a condenser to prematurely go bad or vice versa or both?
Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 1:48 am
by Craig380
Might be some oil / contamination where the points mount on the backplate causing a poor earth ...
You could try spraying a little carb / brake cleaner (or any switch cleaner that doesn't leave a residue) so it runs behind the point mounting, to flush any oily stuff out.
Don't forget to put a little grease on the point cam after you've done this

Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 4:00 pm
by Suzsmokeyallan
Terry also check the three pigtails on the points wires for cleanliness and good soldered joints on them. Also look at the points wires/connectors where they go into the four pin socket.
Sometimes the most obvious things are missed because they 'look' good, that is until you move them.
Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 4:51 pm
by TLRam1
I will do this before I replace the points. I will pull the back plate out and check for bad connections and the 4 pin connector.
Can the points arcing cause the condenser to go out? If so I will replace the points before I put many miles on the bike.
Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:33 pm
by Suzsmokeyallan
When i overhauled the 76 points plate setup i pulled everything off and cleaned all the parts. Then i checked the pigtails and repaired them as necessary and fitted the new points and condensers. I also sorted out the previously botched screws and the way the wires were routed so its all done now as originally intended.
I still have to go back and remove the rock hard wire sheath on the harness under the engine and put in a new one which ill do next summer.
Look at the way the pigtails are secured to the wire strands and see if the wires condition is suspect.
You can unsolder the half of the crimp and redo it quite easily for a proper connection by snipping of a small piece of the wires end.
Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 8:14 pm
by advant63
Can the points arcing cause the condenser to go out?
i believe the opposite is true.
the condenser not absorbing the spike causes the arcing.
Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 11:01 pm
by tz375
Correct. It's usually a failing condenser that causes excessive arcing at teh points. That could be a bad connection though, so I'd go through it and get everything clean and I'd fit three new condensers from your favorite auto store and see if that fixes things.
It sounds like bad connections of poor quality components.
Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 9:29 am
by bikegeezer
Check the resistance between the condenser body and chassis ground. If the condenser isn't grounded, it won't work.
Stu
Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:32 pm
by TLRam1
bikegeezer wrote:Check the resistance between the condenser body and chassis ground. If the condenser isn't grounded, it won't work.
Stu
I will do that plus the other previous suggestions. BTW, where you been at Stu?
Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 6:14 am
by bikegeezer
My login stopped working, so I couldn't post. It mysteriously started working again a couple of weeks ago.
Stu
Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 7:37 am
by Suzsmokeyallan
Hello Stu its great to see you again,,,,,,