I found a GT750 yesterday on Craigslist

[Suzukidave]

Just wondering where you can thread in to block the line , like a grub screw at the bottom or something ?

[The Dark Knight]

Just wondering where you can thread in to block the line , like a grub screw at the bottom or something ?

Well, I was going to try grabbing the threads that are already there. The ones that were tapped into the block for the banjo bolts, but I'm have trouble figuring out what size they are.

I also am having trouble getting a bolt to fit with the 2 machined ridges that are around the vent hole.

[The Dark Knight]

Well, that stopped the leak.

I had to ream a little material off the outer 2 ridge to give the set screw clearance to fit in the threads that where already there.

The only problem I ran into was a previous owner messed up the threads that hold the exhaust to the head. I cleaned them up the best I could, but it might have to be welded, drilled and tapped sometime.

Only thing left is the front brakes and then it's time for a test drive. I'm going to drill out the bleeder values on the mill this week if I can get the time.

[The Dark Knight]

Ok, I have a problem I can't figure out.

The front brakes won't pump up, the calipers are not leaking and the pistons are moving, but when you pull in on the brake lever it is mushy and goes all the way to the grip no matter how much you bleed them.

I thought it was the master cylinder, so I bought a new one and replaced it, same problem still occurring.

[Suzukidave]

Because you have already replaced the master my thought is you still have air in the system . Shim the brake pads so the piston is pushed all the way in to eliminate a place for a air bubble to hide . Tap the lines to maybe work a trapped bubble loose .

[Weirdbeard1000]

I've had luck in the past on stubborn brake bleeds using a marinade injector or turkey baster or large syringe to push fluid into the bleeder down low and watch the hidden bubbles appear in the master cylinder resivior. It always seemed counter intuitive to me to try to push the air bubbles down when they already want to be at the highest place they can find.

[The Dark Knight]

No luck, no matter how much I bleed no difference.

I compressed the pistons a couple of times and it didn't make any difference. Only a couple of bubbles came up when I started pumping on the lever again.

I tell ya, I'm getting desperate haha.

[Suzukidave]

Did you try Weirdbeard's tip ? could it be old brake line hose expanding ? Clamp a piece of wood in a vice thats higher than the master and slip the calipers onto the board and try to bleed them that way

[The Dark Knight]

Well, I got the Harbor freight hand brake bleeder, the brakes still won't pump up. It's enough to move the calipers, but not make the brakes firm.

[The Dark Knight]

Ok, so I got it out and took it down the street a little bit.

I am worried about the crank seals, one pipe is smoking A LOT. Is it possible to over fill the transmission and it burn the extra oil or is it just sucking that oil in?

Once I started riding the smoke went way from that pipe, once I stopped it started again.

[yeadon_m]

Yes, its possible to suck in and burn transmission oil, if a crank seal has failed, but only on one cylinder (someone will say for sure, believe its right cylinder).
Before assuming the worst though, did you remove all three SRIS valves to drain any excess two stroke oil from the crankcases? oil line check valve leak-by on storage is a common way to get very smoky cylinder(s).
If yes, a final quirk can be if a PO has for reasons known only to them rotated the oil pump lever shaft 180 degrees (I found one like this last year on a 550): smokes like a trooper at idle, reduces smoking when riding it.
Good luck!
Mike