BIMOTA GT1 Project

[rngdng]

Yes, they are. They work quite well. Thanks for the complement. This picture was before I changed to VM34 carbs, and changed the rear fender area, but it doesn't look much different....just needs to be repainted after 14 years.



Lane

[wolfgangh]

I am on holidays now until Jan 10, looking forward to lots of garage time. Started today with putting freshly painted wheels with new tires in, and test mounting the JEMCO pipes. This is all a dry build with a spare dummy engine. Tomorrow will check for rearset location, I am afraid it will become quite uncomfortable since the distance footpeg to seat is quite short. But it won´t be a bike for long distance cruising anyways.







After rearset location, adapters for the Lockheed C2696 calipers are next on the to-do list (front and rear). I am still looking for a classic brake master cylinder in 5/8" with integrated round reservoir, original Lockheed costs a fortune, I may try any japanese master cylinders from a 70´s bike (what is the piston diameter of the GT750 master cylinder)?

[rngdng]

That looks friggin AWESOME!!!!!



Lane

[MikeD]

you going to stay with bare metal on the Jemco's, or paint them?

[wolfgangh]

I will either paint them semi-gloss black (I only know matte or glossy high-temp spray cans though) or ceramic- coat them

[Alan H]

I will either paint them semi-gloss black (I only know matte or glossy high-temp spray cans though) or ceramic- coat them

Ceramic is good. This is 'titanium' colour.

[MikeD]

I will either paint them semi-gloss black (I only know matte or glossy high-temp spray cans though) or ceramic- coat them

I think the real question I was thinking about (that I didn't come close to stating clearly) was about some sort of clear coat that will leave them natural but not susceptible to rust/moisture discoloration. Right now I'm planning on black myself until I figure out if there is an answer to the clear question

[rngdng]

Some of the guys on the Kawi board advocate using "Mop and Glo" floor wax on bare chambers. It seems to work.



Lane

[wolfgangh]

Hello,
I have done a few bikes with clearcoated mild steel pipes, and I love the raw looks as long as it is a race bike. See below my 2 YZR500 race replicas based on RZ500 engines, 1 is a 1991 Rainey replica, the other a 1999 Norick Abe replica. Both exhausts are with VHT clear lacquer:





Here is a titanium pipe, obviously no painting needed:



and my TDR250, again with VHT clear paint:



The BIMOTA replica does need to have black exhausts - see the original:



Here are better pics of the current state. I do have clearance issues with the pipes and the lower rear engine mounts, I guess I will need to dent the pipes approx. 10mm unless I decide to cut the pipes and twist and reweld (which I am sure will end up in not looking so good).

[Desert_75]

I left my Jemco's bare. About once a month I hit them with some wd40 and 0000 steel wool to clean the oxidation off (live in AZ). Love the bare metal look!

[MikeD]

I left my Jemco's bare. About once a month I hit them with some wd40 and 0000 steel wool to clean the oxidation off (live in AZ). Love the bare metal look!

mop n' glo guys say WD40 and 3m buffing pads to clean them up as desired, then once yearly MNG application. Crazy... would have never thunk. But def going bare metal now with my Jemco pipes, love the look

http://kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic ... b080f132de" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Suzukidave]

Cool frame but looks really tight on the engine , it could be fun getting that heavy engine into the finished build . This looks like a great build to put the frame onto the engine instead of lifting the engine into the frame .

[wolfgangh]

Actually is easier than with the stock frame where you have to put the engine in from the side, using 2 people and still high risk of damaging the paint of the frame. Easiest way with my frame is of course to put it on the engine from above ( lower frame cradle is detachable). If bike is fully assembled, put the engine on a lifter and simply lift it into its position from below. I have done this alone. The key is I am using spacers at all engine mounts ( except the ones at the lower frame) so there is room to move the engine sideways

[Suzukidave]

Thats cool that the sub frame comes off , i didnt figure that .

[wolfgangh]

Dave, here you can see the mainframe without the (detachable) subframe